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In this issue
Edition: Asia
Vol. 175, No. 12

COVER

What Obama's Visit to Indonesia Means for Asia (Diplomacy)
By HANNAH BEECH / JAKARTA
As Barack Obama prepares for a trip to his childhood home in Indonesia, many across Asia are disappointed that he has not delivered on his promise to pay the region more attention

ASIA

Postcard from Bangkok
By HANNAH BEECH
It's hard to be neutral in a country where not just political parties but also the days of the week are assigned hues and meanings. Parsing the color codes of Thailand

COMMENTARY

Turning Japanese
By MICHAEL SCHUMAN
Japan's two decades of paralysis provide a lesson for an America in political gridlock

ARTS

Lunch with China's Mo Yan (Authors)
By SIMON ELEGANT
Chinese literary great Mo Yan owes some of his longevity to artful compromise

GLOBAL ADVISER

A Weekend in Kathmandu (TIME Traveler)
By JENARA NERENBERG
Don't just head for base camp. Take time to enjoy Nepal's busy capital

Slumdog Commissionaire (Next Time You're in ... Cape Town)
By GAVIN BELL
Guided tours open the door to Cape Town's notorious townships

Anglo-U.S. Accord (Amuse-Bouche)
By DAVID KAUFMAN
Enjoy the honest, rustic flavors of the British gastropub in New York

Valley High (Check In)
By SANGITA ANAND
Take an opportunity to do not much at all at Raglan's Hidden Valley Luxury Retreat

In this issue
Edition: Asia
Vol. 175, No. 11

COVER

10 Ideas for the Next 10 Years
A thinker's guide to the most important trends of the new decade

WORLD

China's Property: Bubble, Bubble, Toil and Trouble
By BILL POWELL / SHANGHAI
A high proportion of China's growth comes from investment in real estate. That's
why we should all be worried

Afghanistan's Fix
By TIM MCGIRK / KABUL
Driving the Taliban out of Marjah was the easy part. To keep them out, U.S. and
Afghan officials must wean the region from its drug dependency

UNITED STATES

The Sea Witch (The Navy)
By MARK THOMPSON / WASHINGTON
The first woman to command a Navy cruiser rose fast through the ranks 窶・until
reports of her abusive command style caught up with her. The inside story of
Captain Holly Graf's stunning fall

ARTS

Why China's Megatrends is a Disappointment (Books)
By MARK L. CLIFFORD
Famed U.S. futurologists failed to see just how bad their book
on China would be

In this issue
Edition: Asia
Vol. 175, No. 10

COVER
The Turbulent Times of Formula One (Motor Racing)
By JOSH LEVINE /V ALENCIA
A sex scandal, a deliberate crash, teams quitting. Formula One's been through a lot of turbulence in the past two years. Can it get itself back in the race?

ASIA
China's Dark City: Behind Chongqing's Crime Crackdown (China)
By AUSTIN RAMZY / CHONGQING
The law-and-order crackdown in the Chinese megalopolis of Chongqing is not just about crime. It is a parable of corruption, politics and the state of justice in China

WORLD
Iraq's Messy Democracy (Iraq)
By ANDREW LEE BUTTERS / BAGHDAD
The country is getting better at elections. But its leaders have not yet learned to compromise

ARTS
Checkered Korea (Books)
By TIM KINDSETH
The Korean peninsula's ups and downs through the eyes of one of its literary greats



GLOBAL ADVISER
Catch the Beat (On Show)
By COCO MASTERS
Takeshi Kitano's Paris show is a whimsical joy

Park Life (Next Time You're in ... Rome)
By ARYN BAKER
Escape the tourists and head for the neighborhood around Rome's Villa Ada park

Pack Them In (Amuse-Bouche)
By JOHN KRICH
Dine in a bamboo pavilion under the stars at Bali's Sardine restaurant

Cloud Nine (Check In)
By JOAN KOH
Space is the most ostentatious luxury at Phulay Bay

IN THIS ISSUE
EDITION: ASIA
Vol. 175, No. 9

COVER
Taking It to the Taliban (Afghanistan)
By BOBBY GHOSH
The U.S. and its allies combine an offensive on Marjah with an elaborate plan for what to do when the fighting stops. Will it work?

ASIA
India's Avatar Moment
By JYOTI THOTTAM
Life imitates art as a mining firm targets a sacred forest home

VIEWPOINT
Perception Gap
By JOHN LEE
The ultimate difference between China and the U.S. is in their visions of their destinies

ARTS
The Past Darkly (Books)
By LARA DAY
Torment, memory, anonymous sex: Neel Mukherjee's debut novel is a troubling page turner


GLOBAL BUSINESS
Follow the Leaders (Economy)
By AUSTIN RAMZY
Four Chinese firms show how to reach the country's consumers 窶・and get them to spend

GLOBAL ADVISER
Sculpture Parks: Out in the Open (Diversions)
By STEVE MOLLMAN
From Michigan to Jerusalem, free yourself from confining museums and make for a wide-open sculpture park

The East Is Red, White And Rosﾃｩ (Grapevine)
By LIAM FITZPATRICK
In "Asian Palate," author Jeannie Cho Lee delivers a much needed guide to pairing wine and Asian food

The Luxury of Roughing It (Check In)
By KATE GRAHAM
London's hottest new boutique hotel Rough Luxe

Wine and Dine in Bangkok's Private Hospitals (Amuse-Bouche)
By JOHN KRICH
Bangkok's hospitals are going all out to blur the line between medical center and hotel

LETTERS

In this issue
Edition: Asia

Vol. 175, No. 8



COVER

Why Washington's Tied Up in Knots (United States)

By PETER BEINART

Discontent with government is at its highest level in more than a decade -

making it harder to solve the country's biggest problems.

A breakdown of how Washington stopped working, and what to do about it



ASIA

Tale of the Cat (China)

By ANDREW MARSHALL

It's never been done before, but with the help of an American expert,

China aims to return tigers to the wild

Postcard from Seoul

By LINA YOON

For many North Koreans, making the harrowing escape south is just the first stage

in a journey of hardship and alienation. How tying the knot is helping refugees settle in

GLOBAL BUSINESS

Weighed Down (Public Debt)

By MICHAEL SCHUMAN

From Greece to Japan, rich countries have racked up massive state debts.

Paying them off will take time - and pain



GLOBAL ADVISER

The Korean Peninsula (Sense of Place)

By TIM KINDSETH

Ko Un's rapturous poetry is one way to see the unity in a divided land

Bring Back Hanging (Next Time you're in ... Mumbai)

By KAVITHA RAO

Two Mumbai galleries are unfazed by the Indian art market's decline

Spoiled for Choice (Amuse-Bouche)

By SUDI PIGOTT

The dining scene on Nevis is constantly evolving. Here are four great places to check out

Bavarian Rhapsody (Check In)

By KATE GRAHAM

Munich's newly opened Louis Hotel claims inspiration from mad King Ludwig II of Bavaria

ESSAY

The Real Deal

By MICHAEL SCHUMAN

Asia has achieved much prosperity, but the U.S. should not draw the wrong lessons from its economic rise

In this issue
Edition: Asia

Vol. 175, No. 7



COVER

What Went Wrong at Toyota (Business)

By BILL SAPORITO WITH MICHAEL SCHUMAN / TOYOTA CITY AND JOSEPH R. SZCZESNY / DETROIT

It was the world's most admired automaker, a company that had redefined manufacturing.

Then the recalls started. What can other firms learn from a corporate culture that went horribly wrong?

The Town That Lost Its Bustle (Toyota City)

By MICHAEL SCHUMAN

Toyota City is dependent on the car company after which it is named. That's not a recipe for happiness



BRIEFING

The Moment

By LIAM FITZPATRICK

2|8|10: Colombo


PEOPLE

The M in Stamina (Profile)

By SIMON ELEGANT

For two decades Australian Michelle Garnaut has been a groundbreaker for independent Western dining in China

- and she is not letting up



GLOBAL BUSINESS

Social Fabric (Books)

By JYOTI THOTTAM

An Indian textile magnate wants tailored solutions to the country's ills, and not just patchwork repairs



VIEWPOINT

China's Iran Dilemma

By BILL POWELL

Will Beijing let its economic ties with Tehran trump the world's need for security?



SCIENCE

The Man Who Could Beat AIDS

By ALICE PARK

David Ho has already helped the world control HIV with powerful new drugs. For his next trick, he'd like to eradicate it



BRIEFING

The Moment

By LIAM FITZPATRICK

2|8|10: Colombo

In this issue
Edition: Asia

Vol. 175, No. 6



COVER

The Survivor (United States)

By ELIZABETH RUBIN

A trusted aide to six Presidents, Robert Gates is the most powerful Defense Secretary in a generation.

But what is the Republican at the head of Obama's war room fighting for?



ASIA

Postcard from New Delhi

By CARLA POWER

Thanks to rising disposable incomes, designer hairstyling is finally making the cut with India's middle class.

Take a chair in the coiffured world of Jawed Habib

Keeping It Real (India)

By JYOTI THOTTAM / ROORKEE

He doesn't dance like a Bollywood matinee idol, nor does he sing like one.

But that could be why Irrfan Khan is the Indian actor most likely to achieve global fame



ARTS

Field Daze (Movies)

By JOHN KRICH

The hardscrabble life of Thai farmers comes under Uruphong Raksasad's thoughtful scrutiny

Loose Canon (Music)

By LIAM FITZPATRICK

Chochukmo's debut doesn't get the production the band sorely deserves



GLOBAL ADVISER

Sheer Heart Attack (TIME Traveler)

By SIMON KELTON

Alaska's Chugach Range could offer the best skiing on earth

Wanders Lust (On Show)

By DAVID KAUFMAN

A major U.S. retrospective celebrates the Dutch design genius

Gone to Pot (Amuse-Bouche)

By LILLIAN CHOU

Three great hotpot places to try in Beijing

Roman Holiday (Check In)

By WILLIAM LEE ADAMS

Villa Laetitia is an upscale oasis of calm on the Tiber River

ESSAY

Shifting Ground

By JEFFREY WASSERSTROM

Beijing's spats with Washington are not to be ignored, yet neither are they game-changing

In this issue
Edition: Asia
Vol. 175, No. 5


COVER
Out of the Ruins
By JAMES NACHTWEY
In words and images, James Nachtwey captures the devastation of Haiti and
the spirit of a proud people determined to recover

WORLD
Searching Questions: Internet Searches in China
By BILL POWELL / BEIJING
If Google goes, China’s search engine Baidu could become a monopoly.
That won’t be good

WORLD ECONOMIC FORUM
The China vs. Google Dispute: Hold Fire (Global Business)
By BILL POWELL / BEIJING
Nobody, not even China, can afford to let the row over Google intensify
into a broader dispute

NOTEBOOK
The Moment (Briefing)
By ZOHER ABDOOLCARIM
1|27|10: Melbourne

ARTS
Big China Books: Enough of the Big Picture (Publishing)
By JEFFREY WASSERSTROM
When it comes to books about China, we need more empathy and
less generalization

GLOBAL ADVISER
A Weekend in Bishkek (TIME Traveler)
By JACK LOSH
Soviet style, U.S. troops, headless goats. Welcome to Kyrgyzstan

Upon the Fields of Bali (Check in)
By JASON TEDJASUKMANA
Alila Vilas Uluwatu, on Bali’s Bukit Peninsula,
is the first resort in Indonesia to win a Globe Green certification
・but that’s not the only reason you should visit

Naval Gazing (On Show)
By CHRISTOPHER SHAY
Hong Kong’s Museum of Coastal Defence offers a glimpse into this port city’s relationship to the sea

Doing the Cha Cha Cha (Amuse-Bouche)
By TINA WALSH
Take time to discover Britain’s tearooms

In this issue
Edition: Asia
Vol. 175, No. 5


COVER
Starting Over: Can Obama Revive His Agenda? (In the Arena)
By JOE KLEIN
One year in, Obama’s agenda is on life support. What he must do to revive it



WORLD ECONOMIC FORUM
Seeing Light Through the Gloom (Global Economy)
By MICHAEL ELLIOTT AND MICHAEL SCHUMAN
As political and business leaders gather for the World Economic Forum in Davos, they will be breathing a sigh of relief. But be in no doubt; the world has changed

Big City Shakeout (Nylonkong)
By MICHAEL SCHUMAN / HONG KONG
In 2008, TIME explored the ways in which ”Nylonkong” ・the three linked cities of New York, London and Hong Kong ・defined globalization. How has Nylonkong fared in the Great Recession?

ESSAY
The China Fix
By JAMES MCGREGOR
Why the Google controversy is a tipping point for foreign businesses in China

ARTS
The Sidewalk Smorgasbord (Books)

By ANDREW MARSHALL
Chef David Thompson reveals the alluring complexity of fast food, Thai-style

Lin Hwai-min’s Short List

GLOBAL ADVISER
Darshan: A Fabulous Equine World (On Show)
By JEFFREY T. IVERSON
Horseplay is the inspiration for a whimsical new show in Paris

Architecture: People Who Live in Glass Houses (Curtain Raiser)
By MATTHEW LINK
Palm Springs prepares for its annual Modernist shindig

Run to the Moganshan Hills (Diversions)
By SIMON ELEGANT
A couple of hours from Shanghai, Moganshan is a once glamorous hill-station retreat that is just beginning to reawaken

Next Time You’re in ... Mozambique
By ALEX PERRY
Visit Ibo Island for a complete change of pace

In this issue
Edition: Asia
Vol. 175, No. 4

COVER
Haiti’s Agony: What It Will Take to Rebuild (World)
By MICHAEL ELLIOTT
One of the worst-ever natural disasters in the western hemisphere leaves the Haitian capital in ruins. What it will take to rebuild

COMMENTARY
Afghanistan’s Learning Curve

By ARYN BAKER
The most powerful weapon for winning the war in Afghanistan is educating its people

ARTS
Photographer Michael Wolf’s Tall Order (Photography)
By LARA DAY
Hong Kong’s vertical habitations are the subject of Michael Wolf’s studied and stylized vision

GLOBAL BUSINESS
Big Oil’s Straight Talker (Oil and Gas)
By VIVIENNE WALT
Total’s Christophe de Margerie says it’s time for the world to get real about our energy supplies

Sunshine’s Cloudy Days (Solar)
By MARK HALPER
Hit by oversupply and lower demand, solar struggled in 2009. Are clear skies ahead?

Read more: http://www.time.com/time/magazine/asia/0,9263,501100125,00.html#ixzz0cwrASMsk

In this issue
Edition: Asia
Vol. 175, No. 2



COVER
The Lessons of Flight 253 (United States)

By MICHAEL DUFFY AND MARK THOMPSON
Missed signs, cumbersome lists and spotty screening permitted a terrorist to take a makeshift bomb on a Christmas flight to Detroit. What the U.S. should learn from a near calamity

WORLD
Angela Merkel’s Moment

By CATHERINE MAYER / BERLIN
A trailblazer and the unchallenged leader of Europe’s largest economy, Germany’s Chancellor now faces an uncomfortable question, How should her country use its power?


ASIA
Postcard from Banda Aceh

By ANDREW MARSHALL
Five years after the devastating Indian Ocean tsunami, a reporter returns to the disaster’s ground zero. A town rebuilt, but scars remain



LETTERS
Inbox


GLOBAL BUSINESS
Outsourcers Go Global (Trade)

By MICHAEL SCHUMAN
After cashing in on globalization’s first wave, India’s IT giants are discovering their continued success may depend on international expansion



ARTS
Beyond the Bullets (Books)

By TIM KINDSETH
The modern art of conflict-ridden Pakistan finally gets some much needed exposure



GLOBAL ADVISER
A Perfect Day in ... Edinburgh
Visiting Scotland’s capital? Let the locals tell you how to do it right

Recovering from Holiday Season Indulgence? (Amuse-Bouche)

By LISA THOMAS
Chinese herbalists may have just the tonic

Terror on The Seas (Curtain Raiser)

By LIAM FITZPATRICK
Extreme 40 sailing is not for the fainthearted

Powder Rooms (Check In)

By LIZ OZAIST
The Viceroy Snowmass Hotel near Aspen, Colorado, is not your typical backcountry outpost

In this issue
Edition: Asia
Vol. 174, No. 25


COVER
Person of the Year 2009: Ben Bernanke

By MICHAEL GRUNWALD
The story of the year was a weak economy that could have been much,
much weaker. Thank the man who runs the Federal Reserve, our mild-mannered
economic overlord

Runners-Up
General Stanley McChrystal, The Chinese Worker, Nancy Pelosi and Usain Bolt

Fond Farewells
Paying homage to the achievers who left us



LETTERS
Inbox

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GLOBAL ADVISER
Five Reasons to Visit Okinawa (TIME Traveler)

By TINA WALSH
It’s Japan, only a lot more chilled out

Spa Food, But Not As We Know It (Amuse-Bouche)

By SUDI PIGOTT
Treat yourself to an extravagant and irresistible afternoon tea at the
Dorchester Hotel’s spa in London

Young Turk (Check In)

By PELIN TURGUT
An Istanbul landmark gets a slick revamp

A Rum Time (Grapevine)

By THEUNIS BATES
Artisan producers from Antigua to Venezuela are persuading sophisticated
drinkers to sip their rum neat

Original section names from the magazine appear in gray text in parenthesis
beside the article’s headline.

In this issue
Edition: Asia
Vol. 174, No. 24


COVER
The Year in Pictures 2009
We greeted a U.S. President and said goodbye to the King of Pop.
We saw a miracle on a river, faces of war, and the world through
the eyes of a whale calf. From Iran and China, a U.S. Senator’s
graveside and the rings of Saturn come the most striking images of 2009,
described by the photographers and citizen journalists who produced them



LETTERS
Inbox


SPECIAL SECTION
The Best of 2009
From animated artistry on the big screen to favorite fiction (and nonfiction) to cerebral country music, TIME’s top picks of the year



ESSAY
A Cosmic Farce

By LIAM FITZPATRICK
In Hong Kong, the practice of feng shui has been cheapened to the point of
absurdity

Original section names from the magazine appear in gray text in parenthesis
beside the article’s headline.

In this issue
Edition: Asia
Vol. 174, No. 23


COVER
Afghanistan: Can Obama Sell America on This War? (In the Arena)

By JOE KLEIN
The President offered a reasoned case for expansion in Afghanistan.
But Americans need inspiration as well



ESSAY
Shrinking The War on Terrorism

By PETER BEINART
Obama’s foreign policy takes a narrower view of American power ・we can’t
fight everyone all at once

Unending Crisis

By MICHAEL SCHUMAN
What the Dubai World meltdown says about the state of the global economy



WORLD
A French Paradox

By BRUCE CRUMLEY / PARIS
President Nicolas Sarkozy came to power as a straight-talking man of action.
But French voters are increasingly puzzled by his policy flip-flops and
ideological confusion

Search inside this issue:



ENVIRONMENT
A River Ran Through It

By BRYAN WALSH / LEH
Climate change is melting glaciers high in the Himalayas, threatening
crucial water resources for much of Asia ・and giving us a convincing
reason to fight it



GLOBAL ADVISER
Jakarta (Sense of Place)

By TIM KINDSETH
Indonesia’s capital, as seen through the eyes of its greatest storyteller

The Modern Art of Hospitality (Check In)

By RACHEL SPENCE
A Turin hotel is home to a plethora of paintings, photographs and sculptures

New Wine In Old Vessels (Grapevine)

By JEFFREY T. IVERSON
The Romans have a thing or two to teach us

Ghee Whiz (Amuse-Bouche)

By JOAN KOH
At Singapore’s hottest new dining spot, opulent dishes are the order
of the day



LETTERS
Inbox

Original section names from the magazine appear in gray text in parenthesis
beside the article’s headline.

In this issue
Edition: Asia
Vol. 174, No. 22


COVER
The Decade from Hell (United States)

By ANDY SERWER
9/11. Earthquakes. Epidemics. Two stock-market meltdowns. As 2010
approaches, a look back at the past 10 years, awful times that they were



WORLD
The World of China Inc.

By HANNAH BEECH / RAMU
The spreading reach of Chinese companies in poor nations is sparking a
backlash against the way they do business

Power to the ’Princesses’

By COCO MASTERS / TOKYO
A record number of women were voted into parliament in Japan’s historic
Aug. 30 elections, but can they really make a difference?



GLOBAL BUSINESS
Pump It Up (Energy)

By VIVIENNE WALT
Seven years after Saddam Hussein’s downfall, energy companies are finally
lining up to develop Iraq’s vast oil reserves. The country’s fate hangs on
their success



ARTS
China’s Orwell (Books)

By JEFFREY WASSERSTROM
A new anthology could give Lu Xun the international prominence he deserves

Spice Girl (Books)

By JYOTI THOTTAM
The model of Indian femininity is beguiling and complex

Search inside this issue:



ESSAY
Ties That Bind

By ISHAAN THAROOR
Despite a seemingly waning alliance, India and the U.S. still have a special
relationship



GLOBAL ADVISER
10 Reasons to Visit Hong Kong’s NoHo (TIME Traveler)

By LARA DAY
Just a few minutes away from Hong Kong’s buzzing SoHo district is NoHo, its
hipper, more laid-back younger cousin

See the Asia Pacific Triennial (Curtain Raiser)

By PHIL BROWN
Held in Brisbane, the 6th Asia Pacific Triennial will see participation from
25 countries, many for the first time

Glam It Up at London’s Sanctum Soho (Check In)

By KATE GRAHAM
You can check out any time you like from this London townhouse, but you may
never leave

Monkey Business in Borneo’s Rain Forests (Great Outdoors)

By ROSANNE BARRETT
Malaysia’s Bako National Park, in Sarawak, Borneo, offers a chance to catch
proboscis monkeys and other creatures in their wondrous awkwardness



LETTERS
Inbox