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In this issue
Edition: Asia
Vol. 175, No. 2



COVER
The Lessons of Flight 253 (United States)

By MICHAEL DUFFY AND MARK THOMPSON
Missed signs, cumbersome lists and spotty screening permitted a terrorist to take a makeshift bomb on a Christmas flight to Detroit. What the U.S. should learn from a near calamity

WORLD
Angela Merkel’s Moment

By CATHERINE MAYER / BERLIN
A trailblazer and the unchallenged leader of Europe’s largest economy, Germany’s Chancellor now faces an uncomfortable question, How should her country use its power?


ASIA
Postcard from Banda Aceh

By ANDREW MARSHALL
Five years after the devastating Indian Ocean tsunami, a reporter returns to the disaster’s ground zero. A town rebuilt, but scars remain



LETTERS
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GLOBAL BUSINESS
Outsourcers Go Global (Trade)

By MICHAEL SCHUMAN
After cashing in on globalization’s first wave, India’s IT giants are discovering their continued success may depend on international expansion



ARTS
Beyond the Bullets (Books)

By TIM KINDSETH
The modern art of conflict-ridden Pakistan finally gets some much needed exposure



GLOBAL ADVISER
A Perfect Day in ... Edinburgh
Visiting Scotland’s capital? Let the locals tell you how to do it right

Recovering from Holiday Season Indulgence? (Amuse-Bouche)

By LISA THOMAS
Chinese herbalists may have just the tonic

Terror on The Seas (Curtain Raiser)

By LIAM FITZPATRICK
Extreme 40 sailing is not for the fainthearted

Powder Rooms (Check In)

By LIZ OZAIST
The Viceroy Snowmass Hotel near Aspen, Colorado, is not your typical backcountry outpost

In this issue
Edition: Asia
Vol. 174, No. 25


COVER
Person of the Year 2009: Ben Bernanke

By MICHAEL GRUNWALD
The story of the year was a weak economy that could have been much,
much weaker. Thank the man who runs the Federal Reserve, our mild-mannered
economic overlord

Runners-Up
General Stanley McChrystal, The Chinese Worker, Nancy Pelosi and Usain Bolt

Fond Farewells
Paying homage to the achievers who left us



LETTERS
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GLOBAL ADVISER
Five Reasons to Visit Okinawa (TIME Traveler)

By TINA WALSH
It’s Japan, only a lot more chilled out

Spa Food, But Not As We Know It (Amuse-Bouche)

By SUDI PIGOTT
Treat yourself to an extravagant and irresistible afternoon tea at the
Dorchester Hotel’s spa in London

Young Turk (Check In)

By PELIN TURGUT
An Istanbul landmark gets a slick revamp

A Rum Time (Grapevine)

By THEUNIS BATES
Artisan producers from Antigua to Venezuela are persuading sophisticated
drinkers to sip their rum neat

Original section names from the magazine appear in gray text in parenthesis
beside the article’s headline.

In this issue
Edition: Asia
Vol. 174, No. 24


COVER
The Year in Pictures 2009
We greeted a U.S. President and said goodbye to the King of Pop.
We saw a miracle on a river, faces of war, and the world through
the eyes of a whale calf. From Iran and China, a U.S. Senator’s
graveside and the rings of Saturn come the most striking images of 2009,
described by the photographers and citizen journalists who produced them



LETTERS
Inbox


SPECIAL SECTION
The Best of 2009
From animated artistry on the big screen to favorite fiction (and nonfiction) to cerebral country music, TIME’s top picks of the year



ESSAY
A Cosmic Farce

By LIAM FITZPATRICK
In Hong Kong, the practice of feng shui has been cheapened to the point of
absurdity

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beside the article’s headline.

In this issue
Edition: Asia
Vol. 174, No. 23


COVER
Afghanistan: Can Obama Sell America on This War? (In the Arena)

By JOE KLEIN
The President offered a reasoned case for expansion in Afghanistan.
But Americans need inspiration as well



ESSAY
Shrinking The War on Terrorism

By PETER BEINART
Obama’s foreign policy takes a narrower view of American power ・we can’t
fight everyone all at once

Unending Crisis

By MICHAEL SCHUMAN
What the Dubai World meltdown says about the state of the global economy



WORLD
A French Paradox

By BRUCE CRUMLEY / PARIS
President Nicolas Sarkozy came to power as a straight-talking man of action.
But French voters are increasingly puzzled by his policy flip-flops and
ideological confusion

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ENVIRONMENT
A River Ran Through It

By BRYAN WALSH / LEH
Climate change is melting glaciers high in the Himalayas, threatening
crucial water resources for much of Asia ・and giving us a convincing
reason to fight it



GLOBAL ADVISER
Jakarta (Sense of Place)

By TIM KINDSETH
Indonesia’s capital, as seen through the eyes of its greatest storyteller

The Modern Art of Hospitality (Check In)

By RACHEL SPENCE
A Turin hotel is home to a plethora of paintings, photographs and sculptures

New Wine In Old Vessels (Grapevine)

By JEFFREY T. IVERSON
The Romans have a thing or two to teach us

Ghee Whiz (Amuse-Bouche)

By JOAN KOH
At Singapore’s hottest new dining spot, opulent dishes are the order
of the day



LETTERS
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beside the article’s headline.

In this issue
Edition: Asia
Vol. 174, No. 22


COVER
The Decade from Hell (United States)

By ANDY SERWER
9/11. Earthquakes. Epidemics. Two stock-market meltdowns. As 2010
approaches, a look back at the past 10 years, awful times that they were



WORLD
The World of China Inc.

By HANNAH BEECH / RAMU
The spreading reach of Chinese companies in poor nations is sparking a
backlash against the way they do business

Power to the ’Princesses’

By COCO MASTERS / TOKYO
A record number of women were voted into parliament in Japan’s historic
Aug. 30 elections, but can they really make a difference?



GLOBAL BUSINESS
Pump It Up (Energy)

By VIVIENNE WALT
Seven years after Saddam Hussein’s downfall, energy companies are finally
lining up to develop Iraq’s vast oil reserves. The country’s fate hangs on
their success



ARTS
China’s Orwell (Books)

By JEFFREY WASSERSTROM
A new anthology could give Lu Xun the international prominence he deserves

Spice Girl (Books)

By JYOTI THOTTAM
The model of Indian femininity is beguiling and complex

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ESSAY
Ties That Bind

By ISHAAN THAROOR
Despite a seemingly waning alliance, India and the U.S. still have a special
relationship



GLOBAL ADVISER
10 Reasons to Visit Hong Kong’s NoHo (TIME Traveler)

By LARA DAY
Just a few minutes away from Hong Kong’s buzzing SoHo district is NoHo, its
hipper, more laid-back younger cousin

See the Asia Pacific Triennial (Curtain Raiser)

By PHIL BROWN
Held in Brisbane, the 6th Asia Pacific Triennial will see participation from
25 countries, many for the first time

Glam It Up at London’s Sanctum Soho (Check In)

By KATE GRAHAM
You can check out any time you like from this London townhouse, but you may
never leave

Monkey Business in Borneo’s Rain Forests (Great Outdoors)

By ROSANNE BARRETT
Malaysia’s Bako National Park, in Sarawak, Borneo, offers a chance to catch
proboscis monkeys and other creatures in their wondrous awkwardness



LETTERS
Inbox

EDITORIAL HIGHLIGHT
ISSUE DATE: November 30, 2009
COVER STORY: -
Banking on Trees
How investing in the world’s forests
can help save the planet

In this issue:-

The Well
- Talking with the Taliban ・The quickest way out of Afghanistan might be
through dialogue with the enemy

- The Fall of Greg Craig ・Obama’s recently resigned White House counsel
discovers the difficulty of keeping campaign promises

- Curious Capitalist ・Justin Fox on the surprising comeback of the market cycle

- Berlusconi’s Beauties ・How the Italian Prime Minister and media mogul uses
women to wield power and influence

- Viewpoint ・China and America need each other now more than ever

- Knock on Wood ・In the battle against climate change, hopes are pinned on a
far-flung swath of Indonesian jungle

- Living Dangerously ・On the first anniversary of the Mumbai attacks, India’s
cities are no safer


Global Business
- Economy ・The growth of China’s long-overlooked west will boost domestic
consumption and may even help stabilize the world economy

- Marketing ・Why ad agencies aren’t just selling other people’s products but
creating their own


Arts
- Books ・Nabokov’s The Original of Laura, a novel in fragments
- Movies ・A guide to Asia’s offbeat film festivals
- Music ・Indonesia’s hottest diva
- Books ・The Word according to R. Crumb


Global Adviser
- Great Outdoors ・Swimming with whale sharks in Mozambique

In this issue
Edition: Asia
Vol. 174, No. 20


COVER
Five Things The U.S. Can Learn from China

By BILL POWELL / SHANGHAI
While the U.S. remains mired in an economic funk, the Asian giant drives
ceaselessly forward. On the eve of Obama’s first visit there, a look at
what the world�s rising power can teach us now



ASIA
Aiming For Parity

By HANNAH BEECH / PATTANI
By arming civilians in Thailand’s troubled south, the state is creating
a dangerous gun culture



ESSAY
The India Model

By MICHAEL ELLIOTT
If India can show that a democracy can provide rapid human development,
the whole world will benefit


UNITED STATES
The Fort Hood Killer: Terrified ... or Terrorist? (The Fort Hood Massacre)

By NANCY GIBBS
When an Army major turns mass murderer on America�s largest military base,
it fuels the worst fear of terrorism experts: Are lone wolves who don�t
need an al-Qaeda training camp the new threat to homeland security?



SPECIAL SECTION
The 50 Best Inventions Of the Year
A revolutionary LED bulb, sky-high farms, steam-powered speed, affordable knee replacements, tank-bred tuna and more in the 50 Best Inventions of the Year



LETTERS
Inbox

Original section names from the magazine appear in gray text in parenthesis
beside the article’s headline.

In this issue
Edition: Asia
Vol. 174, No. 19


COVER
Hillary’s Moment: Clinton Faces the World (United States)

By JOE KLEIN
She is the star of the Obama Cabinet and an international celebrity ・
and after nine months of staying out of the limelight, Hillary Clinton
has arrived on the global stage. An intimate portrait of the diplomat
and her world



ASIA
Indonesia’s President Promises Huge Annual Growth

By HANNAH BEECH / JAKARTA
In July, Susilo Bambang Yudhoyono won re-election as Indonesia’s President
in a landslide. What will he do with his big new mandate?

Q&A: ’We Want to Harness the Forces of Moderation.’
The dress code was local batik when Indonesian President Susilo Bambang
Yudhoyono talked with TIME’s Hannah Beech and Jason Tedjasukmana



GLOBAL BUSINESS
APEC’s Bonding Experience (Trade)

By NEEL CHOWDHURY / SINGAPORE
The recession is rekindling Asian dreams of an E.U.-style trade bloc. Will
the U.S. join?

Run for the Border (Restaurants)

By LING WOO LIU / MEXICO CITY
As U.S. consumers cut back, casual-dining chain P.F. Chang’s bets on selling
”Chinese” food in Mexico



LETTERS
Inbox


ARTS
The Sacrifice Behind China’s Economic Boom (Photography)

By LING WOO LIU
Photographer Andreas Seibert captures the human sacrifices behind China’s
economic boom

The Drama Queen: William Somerset Maugham (Books)

By NEEL MUKHERJEE
William Somerset Maugham’s colorful but less than happy life is the subject
of a new biography

Camcorder Capers in Malaysia (Movies)

By JOHN KRICH
A cheap but supercool crime flick from James Lee



ESSAY
China Woos Africa ・And Not Just For Its Resources

By JOHN LEE
Beijing is looking beyond the continent’s natural resources ・to reaching
its potential consumers



GLOBAL ADVISER
Opening Up (Diversions)

By GARY JONES
Cell phones, fast food and microbrew. Could it be that things are changing
in North Korea?

Rock Star (Check In)

By KRISTA MAHR
L’Hotel in Pietra is an airy boutique property where the rooms feel like
private archaeological museums

Current Affair (Next Time You’re in ... Laos)

By KAYLA WEBLEY
A best-kept Mekong secret is out

Going Strait (TIME Traveler)

By KARI LIPSCHUTZ
Malacca is a no-brainer overnight excursion for those visiting Kuala Lumpur
or Singapore

Original section names from the magazine appear in gray text in parenthesis
beside the article’s headline.

In this issue
Edition: Asia
Vol. 174, No. 18


COVER
The Hunt for Tuna: A Tough Catch (World)

By KRISTA MAHR / GENERAL SANTOS CITY
The relentless hunt for tuna is harming not just the fish but businesses,
consumers and the planet



WORLD
Pakistan’s Army Gets Serious

By ARYN BAKER / ISLAMABAD
It used to be obsessed only with India. But the army and public opinion have
now turned against the enemy within



ARTS
Into the Mystic (Books)

By PICO IYER
William Dalrymple’s riveting depiction of subcontinental religion is heavenly
reading

Big Bang Theory (Music)

By PAVAN SHAMDASANI
When it comes to cracking Japan, this band has the answers

Outwrite (Books)

By JOHN KRICH
Malaysia’s gays and lesbians make a brave debut



LETTERS
Inbox


COMMENTARY
Hatoyama’s Challenge

By RICHARD KATZ
Why Japan’s new Prime Minister is finding it hard to manage the country’s
economic mess



GLOBAL ADVISER
Touring Zanzibar’s Dark Past (TIME Traveler)

By ALEX PERRY
Stone Town is steeped in history ・most of it very unpleasant

On Show at Taipei’s National Palace Museum (On Show)

By NATALIE TSO
An exhibition in Taipei reflects the improved ties between China and Taiwan

A Taste of the Earth at Mirazur (Amuse-Bouche)

By SUDI PIGOTT
Stop by Mauro Colagreco’s hillside restaurant on the French Riviera

The Taming Of Cardiff’s Tiger Bay (Check In)

By PATRICK SAWER
St David’s Hotel and Spa gives new life to the seaside town’s once-dodgy
neighborhood

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beside the article’s headline.

In this issue
Edition: Asia
Vol. 174, No. 17


COVER
The End of California? Dream On! (United States)

By MICHAEL GRUNWALD
The Golden State has fought the status quo since its birth 160 years ago.
It celebrates failure. It is a magnet for innovation. Its obituary has been
posted time and again. But even amid a particularly rough chapter in the state’s history, the nation’s future is being written in California. A special report



ASIA
A Rivalry on the Roof of the World

By JYOTI THOTTAM / NEW DELHI
In the Himalayas, India and China are needling each other. Welcome to what may
be the century’s most important contest



PEOPLE
China’s Literary Bad Boy (Profile)

By SIMON ELEGANT
Wildly popular novelist Han Han is the rebellious, potty-mouthed voice of a
generation of disaffected Chinese youth. Why won’t the authorities shut him up?



LETTERS
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GLOBAL BUSINESS
Tower of Power (Energy)

By AUSTIN RAMZY
China is fast becoming one of the world’s largest alternative-energy markets.
But will foreign firms be welcomed?



ARTS
Mr. Vice Guy (Books)

By PICO IYER
Yakuza, sex, murder. Jake Adelstein’s debut is not your typical expatriate
memoir of Tokyo



GLOBAL ADVISER
Middle Eastern Promise (On Show)

By JEFFREY T. IVERSON
A Paris exhibition showcases exciting new talent

10 Reasons to Visit Yanesen (TIME Traveler)

By ALEXANDRA HARNEY
The winding lanes of Yanesen are a hit with young Tokyoites in search of a
slower pace of life

Lots of Interest (Diversions)

By LUCY FISHER
For the visitor, London’s smaller auction houses offer hours of browsing
pleasure

Try a Little Grass (Curtain Raiser)

By PAVAN SHAMDASANI
Hong Kong’s Clockenflap is a festival with film, art and ecological components
as well as music

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beside the article’s headline.

In this issue
Edition: Asia
Vol. 174, No. 16


COVER
Back to the Land: The New Green Revolution (Farming)

By MICHAEL SCHUMAN / VIDARBHA
Rural poverty and food shortages are forcing nations and scientists to
engineer a new Green Revolution. But there’s a lot of lost ground to make up



ASIA
India’s War at Home

By JYOTI THOTTAM / SRINAGAR
Why the military methods employed by New Delhi in its part of Kashmir are
breeding a whole new generation of angry young men



GLOBAL BUSINESS
Faded Colors (Management)

By PETER GUMBEL
Italy’s Benetton family knitted an empire out of hip sweaters, but competition
and recession are taking a toll. Can the next generation get the aging brand’s
mojo back?



NOTEBOOK
The Moment (Briefing)

By ZOHER ABDOOLCARIM
10|09|09: Peshawar


ARTS
Steppe It Up (Music)

By VERONICA ZARAGOVIA
Huun Huur Tu’s latest album distills the remoteness and romance of Russia’s
Tuva republic



GLOBAL ADVISER
Visit the Jungles of La Huasteca (TIME Traveler)

By ALEXIS OKEOWO
Time to take a break from Mexico’s crowded beaches

Get Out of Manhattan (Check In)

By DAVID KAUFMAN
From Long Island to New Jersey, the past year has seen a mini-boom in
sophisticated new retreats opening around New York City

Gunpowder: New Delhi’s Hottest New Eatery (Amuse-Bouche)

By JYOTI THOTTAM
Sample home cooking from six Indian states at New Delhi’s explosive new
dining venue

Wine Lessons Down Under (Grapevine)

By STEPHANIE STEPHENS
Sydney’s Wine Odyssey offers a walk-through crash course in Australian wine



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beside the article’s headline.

In this issue
Edition: Asia
Vol. 174, No. 15


COVER
The Soldier And the State (Asia)

By ANDREW MARSHALL
The U.S. wants to talk to Burma’s junta, but Washington must first do
its homework on the general known as Grandfather



ASIA
Shifting Sands

By ISHAAN THAROOR
In the wake of bloody ethnic clashes in China’s stark Xinjiang region
in July, photographer Q. Sakamaki captures how minority Uighur life is
changing ・and dying



GLOBAL BUSINESS
A Threat to Global Recovery: Too Many Factories (Global Investing)

By MICHAEL SCHUMAN / HONG KONG
Manufacturers are still producing more goods than the world wants ・and
the recovery could suffer for it



LETTERS
Inbox


COMMENTARY
Reshooting History in a New China Film

By ZOHER ABDOOLCARIM
A new official film about China’s communist revolution blurs the past to
validate the present



ESSAY
Unnatural Disasters

By HANNAH BEECH
The countries worst hit by catastrophes are the ones that are least able
to handle them



GLOBAL ADVISER
Ten Things to Do in Beijing (City Guide)

By SIMON ELEGANT
Parks, alleys and courtyards are the antidote to Beijing’s daunting
vastness

Getting Around Beijing (City Guide)

By SIMON ELEGANT
From tips on tipping to the best way to beat Beijing’s traffic, here’s
what you need to know

Finding the Perfect Beijing Souvenir (City Guide)

By SIMON ELEGANT
Porcelain shard boxes are functional, decorative and poignant reminders
of China’s turbulent history

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beside the article’s headline.

In this issue
Edition: Asia
Vol. 174, No. 14


COVER
A Window On the War in Afghanistan

By RICHARD LACAYO
As Washington debates what to do about the deteriorating situation
in Afghanistan, photographer Adam Ferguson captures and describes
the daily lives of the men fighting it

What Should We Do Now? Two Views (World)

By PETER BERGEN AND LESLIE H. GELB
Is it time for the U.S. military to turn Afghanistan over, or is
time for our troops to stay the course?



NOTEBOOK
The Moment (Briefing)

By ZOHER ABDOOLCARIM
9|30|09: Padang



GLOBAL BUSINESS
The Evolution of Asia (Book Excerpt)
Why the region’s continuing economic progress depends upon new policies
for a postcrisis world



ARTS
Iwan Tirta’s Short List


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ESSAY
American Lament

By MICHAEL SCHUMAN
True, the U.S. has lost its way, but, at its best, it is still a source
of inspiration for the world



GLOBAL ADVISER
Five Reasons to Visit Newfoundland (Diversions)

By JINI REDDY
Newfoundland might fly under the radar, but Canada’s easternmost province
is astonishingly photogenic

Montenegro: Europe’s New Ski Destination (Great Outdoors)

By SIMON KELTON
Why you should forget about Aspen or the Alps and head for Montenegro

One Night in Milan (TIME Traveler)
What to do on your big night out in Italy’s fashion capital

The Maldives New Treasure: Shangri La Villingili (Check In)

By JOAN KOH
A new resort in the Maldives’ lush south is worth a visit next



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beside the article’s headline.

In this issue
Edition: Asia
Vol. 174, No. 13


COVER
Heroes of the Environment 2009 (Special Report)

By SIMON ROBINSON
Our annual guide to the men and women who are working to help the planet

Leaders & Visionaries

Activists

Scientists & Innovators

Moguls & Entrepreneurs



ASIA
Man in the Middle

By HANNAH BEECH / BANGKOK
Just months into the job, Thai Prime Minister Abhisit Vejjajiva is beset
by myriad challenges. Can he turn good intentions into real action?



COMMENTARY
A Rivalry’s Sea Change

By ISHAAN THAROOR
Why the Indian Ocean has become the new theater of tension between India
and China



LETTERS
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ARTS
Prints Charming (Art)

By NEEL CHOWDHURY
The seductive new wave of Asian printmaking



ESSAY
The China Paradox

By AI WEIWEI
While the People’s Republic marks its 60th anniversary with deserved
fanfare, in truth the Party should be over



GLOBAL ADVISER
Reach for the Stars (Curtain Raiser)

By CINDY-LOU DALE
Malawi is home to one of the festival circuit’s best-kept secrets

Back to the Wall (TIME Traveler)

By SIMON HORSFORD
Germany prepares to commemorate a landmark anniversary

TV Chef On Show (Amuse-Bouche)

By LARA DAY
Though he is an Asian Food Channel fixture, San Francisco-born Bruce Lim
is remarkably down-to-earth

Up to Standard (Check In)

By PHIL ZABRISKIE
Andre Balazs has brought his gifted brand of innkeeping to Lower Manhattan’s
Meatpacking District

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beside the article’s headline.

In this issue
Edition: Asia
Vol. 174, No. 12


COVER
The Road to Prosperity (China)

By DAVID SHAMBAUGH
As it marks its 60th birthday, the People’s Republic of China has much
to celebrate. But the emerging global power’s journey has barely begun



ASIA
Postcard from Beijing

By SIMON ELEGANT
As China’s 60th anniversary nears, the capital is in lockdown mode in
preparation for a spectacular ・and militaristic ・parade. What the
show of force says about a nation’s mood



WORLD
Looking For the Way Ahead

By SIMON ROBINSON / LONDON
European nations are hardly on the brink of pulling their troops out
of Afghanistan. But support for the mission is slipping



UNITED STATES
Mad Man: Is Glenn Beck Bad for America?

By DAVID VON DREHLE
Glenn Beck is channeling the fears and anger of Americans who feel
left out ・but is he also stirring that anger and heightening those fears?



GLOBAL BUSINESS
Braking the Banks (Finance)

By PETER GUMBEL
A year after Lehman Brothers collapsed, the world is still groping for
ways to prevent the next financial crisis



LETTERS
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ARTS
The Asian Rihanna? (Music)

By PAVAN SHAMDASANI
Perhaps if you skip all that is saccharine



PEOPLE
10 Questions for Muhammad Yunus
The Nobel Prize ・winning guru of microcredit believes in a poverty-free
world. Muhammad Yunus will now take your questions



ESSAY
Treading Water

By ANDREW MARSHALL
A combination of climate change and poor urban planning is inundating
Asia’s cities



GLOBAL ADVISER
Be WOWed By Montana World of Wearable Art (Curtain Raiser)

By STEPHANIE STEPHENS
The other worldly annual fashion and art event in Wellington, New Zealand
is a testament to the what you can with fabric, thread and a few old bike tires

A Perfect Day in Istanbul
Three well-informed residents tell us how to while away an idyllic day in
the Turkish capital

The Jewel of Vientiane (Check In)

By EMILY RAUHALA
Once a dusty colonial relic, the restored Settha Palace Hotel is one of
the swankier hideouts in Laos’ backpacker paradise

Paris Kitchens Go Local (Amuse-Bouche)

By JEFFREY T. IVERSON
A handful of Parisian chefs are rediscovering produce from the capital’s vicinity

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beside the article’s headline.